Viele von uns verbinden den Namen Breguet mit Uhrmacherei Meilensteine, aber weniger kann sich bewusst sein, seine historische Verbindung zur Welt der Luftfahrt. Louis Charles Breguet, großer Enkel der Horologie-Ikone Abraham-Louis Breguet, war ein aeronautischer Pionier, der die Gyroplane (Vorläufer der heutigen Hubschrauber) sowie die geschützten Breguet XIV und Deux-Points Flugzeuge im frühen 20. Jahrhundert, das goldene Zeitalter entwickelte Luftfahrt innovation. Die Breguet-Uhrenfirma, die damals noch von der Gründungsfamilie geführt wurde, arbeitete mit der Firma Louis Charles in der Entwicklung von ersten Chronographenmechanismen für Cockpit-Instrumententafeln und dann 1935 ihre ersten Chronographen-Armbanduhren für Piloten. Die berühmteste von diesen, der Breguet Typ XX, machte sein Debüt zwei Jahrzehnte später. Auftrag der französischen Streitkräfte,
The modern collection that evolved from this enduring icon, the Breguet Type XXI, added a new model at Baselworld 2016: the Breguet Type XXI 3817, which not only boasts an all-new slate-gray dial but also, for the first time in this vintage aviation-inspired collection, a see-through sapphire caseback.
The Breguet Type XXI 3817, which is equipped with a flyback chronograph function, has a 42-mm steel case with the vintage-influenced fluted caseband that is characteristic of Breguet’s luxury pilots’ watch collection. The case’s bidirectional rotating bezel, a fixture of classical pilots’ watches, has engraved Arabic numerals and a smooth, brushed finish; the screw-locked crown aids in the case’s water resistance of 100 meters. The crystal is sapphire and the lugs are elegantly rounded.
The details on the slate gray dial include luminescent Arabic hour numerals, luminescent hour and minute hands, a 24-hour day-night indicator subdial at 3 o’clock, date window at 6 o’clock, and small seconds subdial at 9 o’clock. Two center-mounted hands count off the chronograph seconds and minutes (indicated on a 60-minute track on the dial’s outer ring), while the subdial at 6 o’clock tallies up to 12 elapsed chronograph hours.
Through the sapphire exhibition caseback — a first for the Type XX collection — the wearer can glimpse the self-winding movement that powers the watch, the numbered and signed Breguet Caliber 584Q/2. In addition to the flyback function that Breguet Type XX chronographs have boasted since 1954, the movement has incorporated several elements made of high-tech silicon: the inverted Swiss lever escapement has silicon pallets and a silicon balance spring.
The new Breguet Type XXI 3817 chronograph comes on a vintage-style brown calfskin strap and retails for $13,900. Scroll down to find some photos we snapped of the watch during its introduction to the press at Baselworld.
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